A Hocus Pocus and Bewitched Day in Salem

by Samantha Brinkley

Many popular Halloween movies and television episodes have been filmed in or around Salem, Massachusetts. The most notable example is Hocus Pocus, a 1993 Disney movie starring Bette Midler as the leader of a trio of sister witches who are resurrected on Halloween night. Much of the movie was filmed in Salem and many of the locations are viewable today. I decided to visit Salem during my October road trip this year to see what the excitement was all about and to get a look at some of these famous locations myself.

The town of Salem, Massachusetts has evolved from a place filled with tragedy and history to a thriving tourist destination that garners almost one million visitors every October. Known for the infamous Salem Witch Trials, It has since become synonymous with Halloween, witches, magic, and anything generally spooky.

Before I continue, I want to give a disclaimer that, while visiting Salem in October sounds like fun, you definitely want to do your research before going. Visiting Salem in October is sort of like visiting Times Square in New York City on any day. I went on a Wednesday, one of the slower days of the week in October, and I was still having to move through crowds, fight for parking, and wait in lines for restaurants. (There were lines to get into some stores, too, but I simply didn’t see that as worth waiting for.)

There are also street vendors and musicians who will be fighting for your attention in addition to everything else you have to look at. It helps to cut out all that noise if you know what to expect going in. The Salem subreddit was a very useful resource for me, providing information on where to park, where to eat, and even a map of the public restrooms. Figure out what’s most important to you, make a game plan, buy tickets beforehand, and make reservations. Or, you could visit in November when the season is still autumn but most of the tourists have left. If I ever go back, that’s probably what I’ll do.

Essex Street

The main hustle and bustle of Salem happens along a strip called Essex Street. One of the first things you’ll see when you get there is a great statue of the witch Samantha from the TV show Bewitched. As someone named Samantha, I definitely appreciated this statue being there, but it’s also a great way to introduce visitors to the town of Salem and get them in the spooky mood. I passed it as I was on my way to lunch at Gulu-Gulu cafe and managed to snap a photo in between other people’s photoshoots.

At Gulu-Gulu, I enjoyed “Uh Oh, It’s Magic” grilled cheese with gouda and mozzarella, caramelized onions, and apple butter on sourdough. I also ordered the Sucker Punch mocktail, made with blood orange tea, pineapple, peach, lemon juice and lime juice.

While you’re walking along Essex Street, you’ll find a variety of shops selling various ooky spooky goods and services. Some of them offer things like tarot readings while others sell witchy supplies or clothes. I noticed as I was walking through the stores that there is a lot of Hocus Pocus merchandise, so you can grab some gear to prepare as you make your way to the viewable filming locations.

The first location you’ll likely come across is the Old Town Hall (below). Fans of Hocus Pocus should remember that this is where the Sanderson sisters bewitch the parents of the town into an all-night dancing frenzy, with Bette Midler singing a very fun version of “I Put a Spell on You.” While no longer utilized as a real Town Hall, it is still accessible to visitors as many Halloween events take place there every year.

When I passed by I saw some colonial women outside advertising an event called “Cry Innocent,” where visitors act as the Puritan jury deciding the fate of an accused witch. This event is different every time since the audience gets to question the accused and determine the verdict. I regret not building the time in for this since it seemed fun and the actors were really selling it. But even if you don’t do any events at Old Town Hall, it’s worth swinging by since it’s right in the heart of Essex Street on a cute cobblestone path. You can easily envision yourself as one of the Sanderson sisters, ready to walk in and deliver a spellbinding performance.

You can also visit the buildings used for the exteriors of Max and Allison’s homes (below).

Allison’s house is owned by the Peabody Essex Museum and is known as the Ropes Mansion. The gardens behind the house are free and open to the public to walk through. By the time I reached the house later in the evening the gates had closed, so make sure you get here on time if you want to see that. Either way, it was cool to see the outside of the building. Max and Dani’s home is a residential building that is still used as a private residence today, so you cannot visit or go inside. However, tourists can still (respectfully) look at the outside and take pictures. I skipped this because I personally felt awkward going to someone’s house, but for die-hard fans, it’s worth a stop.

Salem Common

Salem Common is worth visiting both because of its ties to Hocus Pocus and because it’s a great break from the crowds of Essex Street. It’s a large field with plenty of space for walking around, having a picnic, or sitting in the gazebo. I decided to walk to the Satanic Temple instead of driving and I made a point to walk through the Common. It was nice to get a moment in a quieter setting. Many outdoor scenes of Hocus Pocus were filmed here. Additionally, you can see the exterior of the building used for the high school from the Common, though the building itself is now closed.

The other two locations you can visit (that I didn’t) are Pioneer Village and Old Burial Hill. The latter is actually not in Salem at all, but about 15 minutes away in Marblehead. This is the cemetery where Max gets bullied at the beginning of Hocus Pocus. Pioneer Village is a living museum that recreates what life was really like during the Salem Witch Trials. This area was mainly used for the beginning of the film, while Binx was still a human. If you’re more into the historical aspect of Salem, this is worth a visit as it will transport you back to colonial times.

Halloween Museum

A different tie to movies and TV in Salem is the Halloween Museum. For how small this museum is, I don’t know if it’s worth the $10 price, but they did have some cool props from famous movies including The Nightmare Before Christmas, The Corpse Bride, The Haunted Mansion, and of course, Hocus Pocus. This would be a good spot for kids as there are a lot of blacklight displays they will enjoy looking at.

This has only skimmed the surface of what’s available to do in Salem. Outside of its ties to Hocus Pocus, it’s filled with various attractions and things to do. There are plenty of museums, walking tours, ghost tours, and events. I would recommend ending your day at the Derby Wharf (below). I stopped by just as the sun was setting and walked along the water towards the lighthouse. It was a lovely and calm end to a very energetic but hectic day. I hope you all have a Happy Halloween!